7 Sept 2018

The many faces of the Entrance at Lakes.

The Entrance to the Gippsland Lakes at Lakes Entrance is a famous piece of water for a number of reasons. It has a history not all for the good of seafarers, and yet remains an iconic sight as you travel over the Kalimna Hill and gain a view over that small piece of water with a big reputation. To me it brings a sense of being back home especially after a long trip or a long period of absence. The view from the ocean also bring a feeling of homecoming especially for those who have been at sea for some time. So lets have a look at some of the many faces of the entrance itself.
Wide Angle from Jemmy's Point Tower


For those new to the area or thinking of making a visit, here is a short explanation of Lakes Entrance. Approximately 320 kilometres east of Melbourne, 
Lakes Entrance had a population of 4,810 (census 2016).  This can grow to well over 50,000 during peak holiday periods, it stands adjacent to the managed, artificial channel connecting the Gippsland Lakes to the Bass Strait from which it derives its name and divides Cunninghame Arm (known as the front lake) and North Arm (the back lake) both of which feed into the main Reeves Channel and then to the Entrance itself.
Lakes Entrance Township

Originally named Cunninghame, the Post Office opened on 5 February 1870. It was renamed Lakes Entrance on 1 January 1915, and forms the last point at which waters from the Gippsland Lakes enter Bass Strait. These lakes are a network of lakes, marshes and lagoons covering an area of over 350 square kilometres. The three largest lakes are Lake Wellington, Lake King and Lake Victoria and are collectively fed by the Avon, Thomson, Latrobe, Mitchell, Nicholson and Tambo rivers.
Entrance from the Water

The Gippsland Lakes were formed by a combination of river borne alluvial deposits and the action of sea currents in Bass Strait which created the Ninety Mile Beach and cut off the river deltas from the sea. Water levels of the lakes, would, now being cut off, gradually rise until the waters broke through the barrier beach and the level would drop down until it was at sea-level. These openings could take years dependent on rainfall etc., and when they eventually did break through, it was not always in the same location.
Entrance badly Silted up
In 1889, a wall was built to fix the position of a channel between the lakes and the ocean at Lakes Entrance, This would also stabilise the water level to some degree and create a harbour for fishing boats and open up the lakes to shipping. This entrance still needs to be dredged regularly,  and if not completed the current entrance would silt up in a short time, rendering the ocean access useless.
                                           
                                                         The Pelican which dredged The Entrance for some years

Silted Entrance by Evening Light
Numerous species of wildlife exist and the Gippsland Lakes wetlands are protected by the international Ramsar Convention on wetlands. There are approximately 400 indigenous flora species and 300 native fauna species. The wetlands provide habitat for about 20,000 waterbirds – including birds from as far afield as Siberia and Alaska. The lakes regularly support over 1% of the global populations of black swans, chestnut teals and musk ducks, as well as many fairy terns.

Birds in Flight at Bullock Island
Lakes Entrance is on the migration route of Southern Right whales and humpback whales and numbers of sightings have recently increased especially in recent years, as the populations have started to recover from illegal hunts by the Soviet Union with help from Japan in 1960s-1970s. Occasionally one will enter the outer reaches of the lakes system and provide a spectacle for locals and visitors alike, and recently a mother with a calf stayed in Reeves Channel overnight.
On a Summer and Windy day

Burrunan dolphins have made the lakes their home with a population growing to over 50. These are a recently described species of bottlenose dolphin, the Burrunan dolphin (Tursiops Australis). The other 150 or so of this rare species are to be found in Port Phillip Bay.
Despite all this, the Entrance has a more serious side and has been the wrecking site of many  boats ships both in history and in recent times. This is often due to rogue waves and the bar itself which causes a cauldron of foaming water in some weather conditions. This coupled with tidal flows both ebb and flow cause hazardous conditions for the most experienced sailor. Often waves can be seen crashing over the west wall and the resultant swell from the ocean can make its way past Bullock Island into Reeves Channel on regular occasions.
      

The colour of the water  in and around the entrance can turn from a deep blue to an almost iridescent teal colour. After considerable rain water exiting the lakes through the entrance can turn brown carrying sand and alluvial deposits far out to sea. This stain can be seen from any high vantage point.

       

Wind too can not only reduce the effect of the outgoing tides but can increase the height of the high tides and when coinciding with the phases of the moon, king tides can flood the jetties and on occasions some streets of the town. This is compounded by storm drains which deposit excess water from the town. Recently one way valves were fitted to avoid the incoming tides travelling up the drain pipes into the streets lessening the effect of these tides.
                

At night the entrance takes on a different look. Sometimes it can appear quite tranquil but seafarers should always be aware of its unpredictable power, and especially when attempting to cross the bar to sea or inland. The fishing fleet, once the largest in the southern hemisphere and still large by comparison, uses the entrance for access to land its catch and a safe berth. The various vessels can often be seen plying the entrance, and when in port their nets make colourful scenes.

Boats leave for a night's fishing
 Changes in weather conditions can be violent and sudden and from time to time thunderstorms can be seen travelling along the coast. This coupled with heavy rain can provide a light show over the entire entrance, lakes and ocean beyond.
Storm over the Entrance from roadside lookout
Thankfully our town has a volunteer Coastguard who are always on call to assist in any shipping accidents and the rescue of many who challenge the entrance and its bar consequently failing and calling for assistance. These volunteers continue to have my admiration in their role.
The "Pinky B" returns through the Entrance
    Lake Entrance and its nautical history goes back many years and evidence of it can be seen around the town and its extremities if you are prepared to look. The entrance itself can be serene and peaceful on a sunny day attracting many to the various lookouts to have their picture taken or indeed to take a selfie.
Iconic view over the Entrance
Beware from above when crossing the North Arm Bridge
Coming Home Laden












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